巴勒斯坦盘子:食物如何讲述殖民权力的故事

由于巴勒斯坦食物被贴上“以色列”的标签,食物成为一种权力工具,揭示了文化如何被用来抹杀历史、土地和身份。后巴勒斯坦盘子:食物如何讲述殖民权力的故事首先出现在《影响范围》上。

来源:影响领域

“If the olive trees knew the hands that planted them, their oil would become tears.”Mahmoud Darwis,Awraq al-Zaytun (Leaves of the Olive Trees), 1964.

1948 年以色列成立后,殖民者开始大量涌入。他们发现自己处于一个全新的环境中,因为当年超过 75% 的移民来自欧洲。与此同时,75 万巴勒斯坦人在所谓的“浩劫”中大规模流离失所。 While male settlers were obliged to serve in the Israeli Defense Force (IDF), many of their wives, as a result of traditional marriages, found themselves in empty kitchens.

这就是 Erna Meyer 的《How To Cook In Palestine》(1936 年)如此有影响力的原因。 Originally published in German and Hebrew, this cookbook served as a guide for Israeli housewives on how to cook with peculiar Palestinian ingredients.然而,它缺乏对巴勒斯坦食物的任何历史和文化承认。在此过程中,它通过侵略帮助定居者的存在和对土地的文化所有权自然化。

迈耶的食谱向我们展示了食物绝非中性的。 The stories behind food are often told through colonial powers, privileges, and ultimately an objectionable blindness to an earlier history within Indigenous cultures. This cultural appropriation, parallel with the ongoing violent expulsion of Palestinians from their land and the genocide in Gaza, has become more than normalized. If we listen to this older history of food, we become more aware of the Western privilege that often sees food as something self-evident, something culinary.

美食民族主义作为国家建设

需要建立国家认同标准的年轻国家通常通过推广食品来实现这一目标。 This immense and strong form of generalizing identity by setting the norm for the most practiced form of cultural consumption, such as food, is called gastronationalism.

侵占巴勒斯坦食品

Edited by Khushi Mehta